designer Cédric Charlier Belgium sees as a force in the fashion

  While Paris is known as the epicenter of fashion, designer Cédric Charlier insists Belgium is also a force to be reckoned with. The country has some of its biggest talents in recent decades, Martin Margiela and Dries Van Noten Haider Ackermann and Olivier Theyskens.

"Belgium is so small that if you have something creative inside, you really create," Charlier said in his showroom in the heart of the Marais in Paris.

"The Belgians have a different mentality -. Did we not spent, unlike the French, the couture we nothing to do, so anything can happen," said the 34-year-old. "But there are still challenges.

"I'm not 22, so I have to survive a season. Prefer my time to take the label my build step by step. Yet fashion is all about time. It is this pressure to move quickly. My challenge is, true to remain who I am and to be honest, what kind of clothes I create. "

Since Charlier launched his eponymous three seasons ago, he received so much praise from press and editors that before he joined his fellow founded estimated only a matter of time.

Charlier says fashion is her destiny. As a child he learned embroidery from her grandmother (grandmother also knew how to make clothes, sewing pants army).

At the age of six, he accompanied his mother and shopping advice, what to buy clothes. At the same time, its thriving artistic side as he developed a passion for painting. He still has the hand painted many copies for their collections.

His formal training began at the prestigious art and design school of La Cambre in Brussels, where he specializes in men's fashion.

In 1998 he won the Fashion Award Mon t? Hennessy, who drew the attention of the leaders of LVMH. Instead of completing his studies, he decided to Paris, where he move designer accessories at Celine, under the direction of Michael Kors. After two years Charlier joined Lanvin.

"I knew from the beginning that I wanted to have my own label, but I started when I was 20, so it was normal for someone else. All trademarks, I was continuing my training worked," he said.

In 2009 - to the surprise of Charlier - he was approached for the role of creative director at the French fashion house Cacharel. His aesthetic is the opposite of sweet prints the label and girly dresses, but he accepted the challenge. In just two years Cacharel was again on the agenda of the Paris Fashion Week and the radar through any of its playful collections.

After four seasons, and with his contract ended, Charlier had the opportunity to finally get his own label. With the support of the manufacturing giant Aeffe (led by the husband of Italian designer Alberta Ferretti, Massimo), he began his line for autumn-winter of 2012.

He enjoyed his independence. Freed from the constraints that come with an established fashion house, he was able to explore the business while carving out a strong brand identity.

"I knew from the beginning that I wanted to return something sophisticated and chic to the organization that I wanted, but now this is why I wanted to create something that was affordable, I'm obsessed with cutting - This is my signature ... ., it is a subversive sophistication to my work, but I have yet to play with colors and contrasts, "he said.

Charlier drawings are polished and precise, but not too feminine. Every season, it promotes the silhouette punctuated with industrial plants or unique, the color and Surprise.

For Autumn Winter 2013 square his shoulders silhouettes and asymmetrical draping details have as rounded. Between exposed seams and linings, while clothes with zippers copper come over the back or colorful embroidery. Monastic blue, forest green and black contrast with Day-Glo colors such as yellow and fuschia. He also experimented with collage and layering in the tissues. The look is elegant and sophisticated with a subtle futuristic.

His inspirations are varied, from medieval manuscripts (for list) to the Flemish painters. "I have eclectic tastes and I am attracted to many things. I like to collect the opposite."

What brings the look together is the vision of the woman Cédric Charlier, that is "global."

.... "I do not believe a woman in my head I at a time in the past working work was dictatorial fashion, such as Saint Laurent was alive when women seek power and less free Today, women are different - they can do what they want. therefore I can not use a total look on my client. I love [my clothes] to be mixed with jeans or a t-shirt that costs five dollars. Simultaneously, it is important to have a global value. "

It has four women in his team to ensure that his creations are grounded in reality.

Charlier currently has four collections per year (ready-to-wear and pre-collections) and is equipped with shops, including Barneys New York and Maria Luisa assembled in Hong Kong. She plans, other accessories (he has together with Cutler and Gross glasses and a small line of handbag) to develop, then maybe venture back into menswear.

"The men's line will be very different. Often when designing for both women and men who drawings seem very similar., This is not something I want to do. I am sure that my husband be very different," he said with a laugh.

One thing that can not be done in the foreseeable future, however, it is to work for a different brand.

"Design is like cooking. Spend a lot of money, but at the same time, you can create an amazing dinner with simple products. Due to the independence may mean that I can not have plain pasta, but it makes me happy.

This is what I want, "he said.